Step 1: Check for an internet service outage
Check for an internet outage or sign in to your Google Fiber Account
Check for an outage via the Fiber Outage Search Page
1. Search for an internet outage in your area
2. Enter your street address
3. Select "Check status" to see if there are any known outages in your area
Check for an outage by signing in to your Fiber account
A message at the top of your Fiber Account page will let you know if you’re experiencing a network outage or other known service disruption.
- Sign in to your Fiber Account using the email address and password you used when you originally signed up for Fiber or go the Google Fiber app.
- Check for an alert at the top of the page about an internet outage affecting your Google Fiber service.
Step 2: Verify that your account is in good standing
You can view and pay your outstanding balance at any time within your account.
Update your payment methods
Since we automatically bill you each month, there’s no need to sign in every time to make a payment. Within your account, you can assign a new payment method, use a prepaid debit card or add a back-up payment method.
Pay your outstanding balance
There are a few instances where you’ll have an outstanding balance, such as when we charge an expired credit card or a prepaid card with insufficient funds. To ensure your account is in good standing, you can update your payment method. Updating your payment method initiates an automatic charge on the new payment method for the full balance you owe.
For more information about Fiber billing, please visit the Manage your billing and payments section of the Help Center.
Step 3: Troubleshoot your Fiber Jack
Your Fiber Jack is where Google Fiber's fiber optic signal comes into your home. For most customers, this will be a small white box attached to the wall, and you'll have a separate wireless router that plugs into the Fiber Jack via an ethernet cable. Refer to the video below for more detailed instructions.
Manually check and reset your Fiber Jack
If your Fiber Jack has 1 light, it should be solid blue.
GFLT100, GFLT110, or GFLT300
This model is referred to as FJ 1.0. It has been discontinued but some customers may still have FJ 1.0 if they have not upgraded to FJ 2.0.
Device Details:
- Measures ~55 mm wide by 70 mm tall.
- The LED indicator is on the front of the device in the upper-right corner.
- The ethernet port, reset button, and power adapter port are on the top of the FJ, from left to right, respectively.
- The optical connection port is on the bottom of the device.
This model is referred to as FJ 2.0. It is currently the standard for new installations for Google Fiber.
Device Details:
- Measures ~55 mm wide by 70 mm tall.
- The LED indicator is on the front of the device in the upper-right corner.
- The ethernet port, reset button, and power adapter port are on the top of the FJ, from left to right, respectively.
- The optical connection port is on the bottom of the device.
This model is capable of Power over ethernet (POE). It is used by customers in San Antonio.
Device Details
- Measures 104 mm x by 147 mm x 33.4mm
- The LED indicator is on the front of the device above the Google Fiber label.
- The optical connection port, power adapter port, PoE, and reset pin are on the side of the FJ, from left to right, respectively.
Click the GFLT100, GFLT110, or GFLT300 headline directly above to view images of these Fiber Jack models, and use the following information to check the LED light status.
Light Status | Cause | Action |
Solid red | Powering up or trying to connect to the network | Wait for the process to complete. If the LED doesn't advance to solid blue within 2 minutes, powercycle the device. |
Pulsing red | Connecting to the network | Wait for the process to complete. If the LED doesn't advance to solid blue within 2 minutes, powercycle the device. |
Pulsing blue | Upgrading device firmware | Wait for the process to complete. Your service will continue to work during this time, but there may be a brief outage when the device restarts to complete the upgrade. (Firmware updates are usually scheduled in the middle of the night.) |
Solid blue | The device is connected to the network and online. | No action required. |
No light | No power | If the device is fitted with a power cable, check the cable and the outlet to be sure it has power. If the device has no power cable, check the ethernet cable connections and power to the Network Box. |
If your Fiber Jack has 4 lights, the Optical light should be solid green.
Fiber Jack (GFLT100, GFLT110, GFLT300, GFLT132, GOGP220C, GOGP222C, and GOXP330C) product info can be found here.
Model GFLT132 is shown below.
Power LED:
Light Status | Cause | Action |
Solid green | Powered on | No action required. |
No light | Power off |
|
Alarm LED:
Light Status | Cause | Action |
No light | No issues detected | No action required. |
Red light | Loss of signal |
|
Optical LED:
Light Status | Cause | Action |
Pulsing green | Starting up | No action required. |
Solid green | Successfully connected and authenticated | No action required. |
No light or will not stop pulsing green | No optical connection or Fiber Jack is ranged but not authenticated. |
|
Network LED:
Light Status | Cause | Action |
Pulsing green | Traffic is passing successfully | No action required. |
Solid green | A device is connected but not passing traffic. |
|
No light | LAN Port is not connected to a device | Make sure that the ethernet cable is securely connected. |
If you are using Google Fiber's 2 Gig-capable Multi-Gig Router, the internet light
should be solid blue.
(Model GFRG300)
Power LED:
Light status | Cause | Action |
No light | No power |
Unplug and reset the router:
|
Purple | Powering up or trying to connect to the network | Wait 2-3 minutes for the power, internet and Wi-Fi LEDs to turn to solid blue |
Solid blue | Device is connected to the network and online | No action required. |
internet LED:
Light Status | Cause | Action |
Purple | Powering up or trying to connect to the network |
Unplug and reset the router:
|
Solid red | Searching for uplink connection |
Unplug and reset the router:
|
Pulsing red | Connection issue |
Unplug and reset the router:
|
Pulsing blue | Retrieving DHCP IP (connecting) | Wait 2-3 minutes for the power, internet and Wi-Fi LEDs to turn to solid blue |
Solid blue | Device is connected to the network and online (talking to ACS) | No action required. |
Wi-Fi LED:
Light status | Cause | Action |
Solid blue | Wi-Fi is on | Your Wi-Fi is on, and you should be able to connect. If you cannot connect to your Wi-Fi network, make sure that you are using the correct Wi-Fi name (SSID) and password. You can verify or change your Wi-Fi name & password by signing in to your Google Fiber Accountor by accessing the Google Fiber app. |
No light | Wi-Fi is off | Click here to turn on your Wi-Fi signal. |
Step 4: Troubleshoot your router
Network Box
1. If none of your devices are able to connect to the internet
Check the color of the LED light on the Network Box
Light Status | Meaning |
Solid blue | Great! The device is connected to the network and is online. This is the intended behavior. |
Slow pulsing blue | Connected to the network or upgrading device firmware |
Fast pulsing blue | Connected to the network but unable to reach Google Fiber servers |
Pulsing red | Disconnected from the network |
Solid red | Hardware failure |
No light | No power |
Unplug and reset your Network Box
- Unplug its power cord.
- Wait at least 10 seconds.
- Plug the power cord back into the device.
- Wait 2-3 minutes for the LED to turn to solid blue.
- Verify that you can see the Network Box's Wi-Fi Network Name (SSID) and that the device(s) you are using is connected to the correct Wi-Fi Name and Password.
If you're still having trouble after following the steps above, please contact Google Fiber customer support.
2. If only one of your devices is unable to connect to the internet
- Verify that you can see the Network Box’s Wi-Fi Network Name (SSID) and that the device you are using is connected to the correct Wi-Fi Name and Password.
- If possible, connect the device directly to your Network Box using an ethernet cable.
- If only 1 device is not connecting, the issue is more than likely with that device.
- Please contact the device manufacturer’s customer service team before contacting Google Fiber so that we can rule out any device specific issues.
3. If your internet is slower than expected
Run a Speed Test
- Go to speedtest.net and click the go button to start the test.
- See how your speed compares to the Maximum internet speeds on Google Fiber
Download the Ookla Speed Test App (opens in a new tab) to perform an accurate speed test.
If you have pop-ups blocked, the speed test may not appear when you click the speed test link. If this occurs, unblock pop-ups temporarily to display the speed test page.
Refer to the Ookla SpeedTest Desktop App Help Center article for additional details regarding how to run the test.
All hardwired speed tests should be conducted using the 10G LAN port on the back of the GFRG300 (or direct to the ONT); this is the silver multi-gig ethernet port on the back of the router.
It is the ONLY MULTIGIG LAN PORT.
Mobile Devices (Wi-Fi)
Release date | 802.11 version | Maximum possible speed |
2020-present | 802.11ax (Wi-Fi 6) | 500 Mbps |
2013-present | 802.11ac | 180 Mbps-390 Mbps |
2011-2012 | 802.11n | 90 Mbps |
2007-2010 | 802.11n | 32 Mbps-90 Mbps |
2006 or earlier | 802.11a/b/g | 32 Mbps |
Computers (Wi-Fi)
Release date | 802.11 version | Maximum possible speed |
2020-present | 802.11ax (Wi-Fi 6) | 700 Mbps |
2013-present | 802.11ac | 195 Mbps- 585 Mbps |
2011-2012 | 802.11n | 180 Mbps-270 Mbps |
2007-2010 | 802.11n | 90 Mbps-180 Mbps |
2006 or earlier | 802.11a/b/g | 32 Mbps |
Computers (ethernet or USB adapter to ethernet)
This section describes the maximum expected speeds based on real-world conditions. The most important factors in determining wired connection (ethernet) speeds are:
- Is your computer capable of gigabit speeds? True for most computers manufactured after 2009
- Does your computer have an ethernet connector? Most recent laptops don't have one; they require a USB to ethernet adapter
- If your computer requires a USB to ethernet adapter, is your computer capable of USB 3.0? True for many computers made after 2013
Release date | How is ethernet connected? | Maximum possible speed |
2016 or later | 2.5GBASE-T or higher ethernet adapter |
2000* Mbps *only with Google Fiber 2 Gig plan |
2010 or later | ethernet connector | 930 Mbps |
2010-2014 | USB 2.0 to ethernet adapter | 400 Mbps |
2015 or later | USB 3.0 to ethernet adapter | 930 Mbps |
2009 or earlier | ethernet connector | 100 Mbps |
4. If connecting via Wi-Fi, make sure that your device (phone or computer) is connected to the 5 GHz band.
- You should be able to check this in your device’s Wi-Fi settings.
- You can split your Wi-Fi Network Name (SSID) into two separate networks in your account settings.
- Click here for other tips on how to Improve your Wi-Fi speeds
- If your speeds are still slower than expected after following the steps above, contact Google Fiber customer support.
Google Wifi
1. Check the color of the LED light on the main Google Wifi point (connected to the Fiber Jack)
Color | What it means | What to do |
No light | Wifi point has no power or the light was turned off in the app. |
Check that the power cable is properly connected to your Wifi point and a working wall outlet. If your Wifi point is already set up and the light is off, check your light brightness settings in the app. If there's still no light, contact Google Wifi customer support. |
Solid white | Wifi point is online and all is well | You're online. Enjoy! |
Pulsing blue | Wifi point is ready for setup | Set up the Wifi point in app. The light will turn solid white once the Wifi point is online. |
Solid blue | Wifi point is factory resetting itself | This can take up to 10 minutes. When it's done, the Wifi point will reset itself and start pulsing blue, letting you know it's ready for setup. |
Pulsing orange | Wifi point has no internet connection | Check that the ethernet cable is properly connected to your primary Wifi point and modem. Learn more about fixing network errors. |
Pulsing red | Wifi point has an issue | Factory resetthe Wifi point. If it continues to pulse red, contact Google Wifi customer support |
2. Check the Google Home app’s Network Insights
- When an issue with the network is identified by Google Wifi devices, you will have an insight card in your Google Home feed letting you know there may be a problem.
- Open the Google Home app and check your Feed
which is at the bottom right corner of the home screen.
- Check for Network Insight messages.
Examples of Network Insight Messages
Ethernet connection is limiting your network speed
This insight is shown when a speed test has been performed recently in which the link speed of the network was 100 Mbps or lower, and a point’s speed was 90% or less than the speed of their primary point. This likely means that there is an issue with the ethernet cables, connection, or other networking equipment.
- Check if the ethernet ports/cables are loose and/or damaged in any way, and refer to the Fiber Space for replacement if necessary.
Slow internet speeds - internet service providers (ISP)
You will receive this alert when Google Wifi determines that their internet requests are taking longer to complete than expected.
- Test your connection plugged directly into the Fiber Jack.
- If speeds are as expected, proceed with other troubleshooting steps as needed. Otherwise, contact customer support to schedule a repair appointment.
Slow internet speeds - Network congestion
You will receive this alert when Google Wifi detects your internet connection is slow due to congestion or a lack of bandwidth. This means there may be a device on the network using excessive bandwidth (Gaming/Google Photos back-up, etc.) or that there is too much network congestion.
- Check if there are any third party routers on your network and disable them.
- If there are no other networking devices connected, powercycle your Google Wifi devices, starting with the primary point. If speeds do not improve after a powercycle, try factory resetting the devices.
3. If only one of your devices is unable to connect to the internet
- Verify that you can see the Google Wifi Network Name (SSID) and that the device you are using is connected to the correct Wi-Fi Name and Password.
- If only 1 device is not connecting, the issue is more than likely with that device.
- Please contact the device manufacturer’s customer service team before contacting Google Fiber so that we can rule out any device specific issues.
4. If no devices are able to connect to the internet
Verify that you are connecting using the correct Wi-Fi Name (SSID) and password
i. To update your Wi-Fi name:
1. Open the Google Home app .
2. Tap Wi-Fi
Settings
.
ii. To update your Wi-Fi password:
1. Open the Google Home app .
2. Tap Wi-Fi
Show password.
3. Tap Edit .
Powercycle all Google Wifi points as well as your Fiber Jack
- Disconnect power from the Fiber Jack.
- Disconnect ethernet cable and power from the main Google Wifi point (connected to the Fiber Jack).
- Disconnect power from the mesh point(s).
- Leave them all unplugged for one minute.
- Connect the power to the Fiber Jack and allow the Fiber Jack to power on fully before proceeding. This can take up to three minutes. (see Fiber Jack model specific power cycling instructions above if needed).
- Reconnect the power and the ethernet cables back to the main Google Wifi point, making sure that the ethernet cable coming from the Fiber Jack is going into the WAN port on the Google Wifi (looks like a little globe symbol). Wait until it’s fully back online.
Try to get online
- If your service has been restored, reconnect power to the additional mesh point(s).
- The mesh point(s) should turn solid white or teal.
- Continue to the next step to test your Mesh Connection.
- If you are still unable to connect any devices, contact Google Fiber customer support.
5. Test Mesh Connection (for 2+ points)
The mesh test measures the connection between your router or primary Wi-Fi point (the one connected to your modem) and any additional points. The stronger that connection is, the better your Wi-Fi will be throughout your house.
Run a mesh test with the Google Home app
To run a mesh test:
- Open the Google Home app Google Home app.
- Tap Wi-Fi > Wi-Fi devices > Points > Test mesh.
- Once your mesh test is concluded, one of the three ratings will appear: Great, OK, or Weak.
Rating | Speed |
Great | More than 100 Mbps |
OK | Between 50 and 100 Mbps |
Weak | Less than 50 Mbps |
How to get a "Great" wireless mesh connection
- Hardwire mesh points - If you have ethernet wiring throughout your home, you can connect the mesh points to the LAN port of the main point. Since there’s only 1 LAN port on a Google Wifi, you will need an ethernet switch to hardwire multiple mesh points.
- Check line of sight - Points perform better when they can see each other. Repositioning points to avoid obstructions like walls, doors, and aquariums can improve performance.
- Get off the ground - Placing devices somewhere off the ground, such as on a shelf, can greatly improve coverage.
- Consider your overall mesh network - Points depend on each other to provide great coverage in your home. In order to fix a particular “weak” point, you may need to move a different point in order to fix it.
6. If your internet speed is slower than expected
Your internet speed depends on several factors, such as the age of your computer or other device, its distance from your router, and the number of devices connected at once. When you connect using Wi-Fi, you won't reach maximum internet speeds but you can expect faster speeds than you would with other types of wireless access. It's normal for the speeds you receive to be lower than those listed on this page. Your real-world speeds depend on a variety of factors that affect your internet, including the Google Fiber equipment you have, the devices you use (such as age/models, locations relative to your router and number) and the 802.11 Wi-Fi version your device uses.
Run a Speed Test
Run a speed test using the Google Home app. This will tell you the hardwired speed that your Google Wifi is receiving from Google Fiber.
i. Open the Google Home app .
ii. Tap Wi-Fi
under “Network,” tap Run speed test.
iii. To view your previous speed test results, tap Wi-Fi
Network. Results can be found at the bottom.
Run a speed test using a web browser. This will tell you the speed that your individual device (computer, phone, etc.) is receiving from Google Wifi.
i. Go to speedtest.net and click the go button to start the test.
Download the Ookla Speed Test App (opens in a new tab) to perform an accurate speed test.
If you have pop-ups blocked, the speed test may not appear when you click the speed test link. If this occurs, unblock pop-ups temporarily to display the speed test page.
Refer to the Ookla SpeedTest Desktop App Help Center article for additional details regarding how to run the test.
All hardwired speed tests should be conducted using the 10G LAN port on the back of the GFRG300 (or direct to the ONT); this is the silver multi-gig ethernet port on the back of the router.
It is the ONLY MULTIGIG LAN PORT.
ii. See how your speed compares to the Maximum internet speeds on Google Fiber:
Mobile Devices (Wi-Fi)
Release date | 802.11 version | Maximum possible speed |
2020-present | 802.11ax (Wi-Fi 6) | 500 Mbps |
2013-present | 802.11ac | 180 Mbps-390 Mbps |
2011-2012 | 802.11n | 90 Mbps |
2007-2010 | 802.11n | 32 Mbps-90 Mbps |
2006 or earlier | 802.11a/b/g | 32 Mbps |
Computers (Wi-Fi)
Release date | 802.11 version | Maximum possible speed |
2020-present | 802.11ax (Wi-Fi 6) | 700 Mbps |
2013-present | 802.11ac | 195 Mbps- 585 Mbps |
2011-2012 | 802.11n | 180 Mbps-270 Mbps |
2007-2010 | 802.11n | 90 Mbps-180 Mbps |
2006 or earlier | 802.11a/b/g | 32 Mbps |
Computers (ethernet or USB adapter to ethernet)
This section describes the maximum expected speeds based on real-world conditions. The most important factors in determining wired connection (ethernet) speeds are:
- Is your computer capable of gigabit speeds? True for most computers manufactured after 2009
- Does your computer have an ethernet connector? Most recent laptops don't have one; they require a USB to ethernet adapter
- If your computer requires a USB to ethernet adapter, is your computer capable of USB 3.0? True for many computers made after 2013
Release date | How is ethernet connected? | Maximum possible speed |
2016 or later | 2.5GBASE-T or higher ethernet adapter |
2000* Mbps *only with Google Fiber 2 Gig plan |
2010 or later | ethernet connector | 930 Mbps |
2010-2014 | USB 2.0 to ethernet adapter | 400 Mbps |
2015 or later | USB 3.0 to ethernet adapter | 930 Mbps |
2009 or earlier | ethernet connector | 100 Mbps |
- If connecting via Wi-Fi, make sure that your device (phone or computer) is connected to the 5 GHz band. (see Wi-Fi frequencies and signal strength for more detail)
- You should be able to check this in your device’s Wi-Fi settings.
- You can split your Wi-Fi Network Name (SSID) into two separate networks in your account settings.
- Click here for other tips on how to Improve your Wi-Fi speeds
- If your speeds are still slower than expected after following the steps above, contact Google Fiber customer support
Wi-Fi 6 Routers
Illustrations of Routers
The Multi-Gig Router shown above works with the optical connector to provide internet service for your home network. During your installation, the Multi-Gig router and optical connector are connected to a fiber wall plate (this is the spot where internet enters your home, which gets installed along with your 2 Gig devices) using fiber cable by one of our technicians. Refer to About your Wi-Fi 6 Router for additional information.
The Wi-Fi 6 Router shown above uses a Fiber Jack to provide internet service for your home network. Watch this quick Find Your Fiber Jack video or follow the step-by-step instructions to Set up your Router.
Troubleshooting Steps
1. If none of your devices are connected to the internet.
Power LED:
Light Status | Cause | Action |
No light | No power |
Powercycle the Multi-Gig Router:
|
Purple | Powering up or trying to connect to the network | Wait 2-3 minutes for the Power, internet and Wi-Fi LEDs to turn to solid blue |
Solid blue | Device is connected to the network and online | No action required |
internet LED:
Light Status | Cause | Action |
Purple | Powering up or trying to connect to the network |
|
Solid red | Searching for uplink connection |
Powercycle the Multi-Gig Router:
|
Pulsing red | Connection issue |
Powercycle the Multi-Gig Router:
|
Pulsing blue | Retrieving DHCP IP (connecting) | Wait 2-3 minutes for the Power, internet and Wi-Fi LEDs to turn to solid blue |
Solid blue | Device is connected to the network and online (talking to ACS) | No action required. |
Wi-Fi LED:
Light Status | Cause | Action |
Solid blue | Wi-Fi is on | Your Wi-Fi is on, and you should be able to connect. If you cannot connect to your Wi-Fi network, make sure that you are using the correct Wi-Fi name (SSID) and password. You can verify or change your Wi-Fi name & password by signing in to your Google Fiber Account or by accessing the Google Fiber app. |
No light | Wi-Fi is off | Click here to turn on your Wi-Fi signal. |
2. If only one of your devices is unable to connect to the internet
- Verify that you can see the Network Box’s Wi-Fi Network Name (SSID) and that the device you are using is connected to the correct Wi-Fi Name and Password.
- If possible, connect the device directly to your Multi-Gig Router using an ethernet cable.
- If only 1 device is not connecting, the issue is more than likely with that device.
- Please contact the device manufacturer’s customer service team before contacting Google Fiber so that we can rule out any device specific issues.
3. If you have a Mesh Extender and need to troubleshoot it
If you have a strong connection when standing next to your Multi-Gig Router, but are experiencing service issues when moving closer to the Mesh Extender:
- Try unplugging your Mesh Extender from the power outlet.
- If you have a strong connection throughout your home without a Mesh Extender, then you may want to leave it unplugged or return it to Google Fiber. The Multi-Gig Router has a powerful Wi-Fi signal, and many customers do not need a Mesh Extender.
- If you do need a Mesh Extender, try resetting it.
- Factory reset the Mesh Extender by holding down the reset button on the back for 10 seconds.
- To connect your Mesh Extender via a wired connection (typically used if you have ethernet wiring throughout your home), simply plug in an ethernet cable coming from your Multi-Gig Router, then connect your Mesh Extender to a power outlet.
To connect your Mesh Extender via a wireless connection:
Step 1: Place the mesh extender halfway between your router and your furthest Wi-Fi devices
Step 2: Pair the mesh extender with your Google Fiber Multi-Gig Router
Once the status light starts pulsing yellow, pair the mesh extender with your Google Fiber Multi-Gig Router (or existing mesh extender) using WPS.
Briefly press the WPS button on the top panel of the mesh extender. The status light on the mesh extender will start pulsing green. Within two minutes, briefly press the WPS button on your Google Fiber Multi-Gig Router. The status light on the mesh extender will turn solid green, meaning you’ve connected successfully.
Ways to get the best connection with your new mesh extender
1. Reduce the number of objects between your Wi-Fi devices—especially walls.
2. Don’t place your Google Fiber Mesh Extender in an area with a lot of other devices that could cause interference (baby monitors, microwave ovens, etc.)
3. Use devices that support and use 5GHz Wi-Fi.
Solid green? The link between the router and the mesh extender is great.
Solid yellow? Your link to the router is OK, but try moving it closer to the Google Fiber Multi-Gig Router.
Solid red? You’re not going to have great Wi-Fi. We recommend finding another spot for your mesh extender closer to the router or with fewer walls in between the mesh extender and the router.
Step 3: Connect your devices to your new mesh extender
Have WPS-ready devices? It’s easy to pair your devices using WPS. Just briefly press the WPS button on the mesh extender. The status light on the mesh extender will start pulsing green. Then, start WPS on your Wi-Fi device. After a few moments, the status light on your mesh extender will turn back its previous solid green or solid yellow color. This means your device is now connected to Wi-Fi.
If you’d prefer to connect using SSID, configure your network settings on your device using the Wi-Fi network name (SSID) and password.
Enjoy your mesh network
Common issues during setup
What does it mean if the status light is pulsing red after attempting to connect to my multi-gig router?
This means your new mesh extender could not establish a Wi-Fi connection through WPS. Try the following steps until you’ve established connection successfully:
1. Wait until the red pulsing light goes out, then try using WPS again.
2. Turn the mesh extender slightly and then try again.
3. Minimize the number of walls between the two devices and then try again.
4. Move the mesh extender closer to the multi-gig router and then try again.
What should I do if the status light is solid red after establishing connection to my multi-gig router?
You’ll need to reposition the new mesh extender. Follow these steps while still connected to the power source:
- Reposition the mesh extender so there aren’t large objects, like walls, furniture and TV screens between it and your multi-gig router. Wait 15 seconds to allow the mesh extender to re-evaluate the link quality.
- Repeat this until the status light turns solid green. (Solid yellow means you’ve established a good connection.)
What should I do if my new mesh extender is unresponsive?
1. Less than 5 seconds to force it to restart to your default settings.
or
2. At least 10 seconds to reset it to factory default settings.
4. If your internet is slower than expected
- Many modern devices only support internet speeds up to 1 Gigabit per second due to the limitations of a device's built-in hardware. Please check your device's specifications and follow the steps below to see if it is capable of 2 Gig speeds before contacting Google Fiber if your speeds are slower than expected.
- If you are connecting to your 2 Gig service through a switch or hub, these networking devices must also be able to support 2 Gig bandwidth. Check the device specifications or contact the manufacturer to confirm this
- Your internet speed depends on several factors, such as the age of your computer or other device, its distance from your router, and the number of devices connected at once. When you connect using Wi-Fi, you won't reach maximum internet speeds from your plan, but you can expect faster speeds than you would with other types of wireless access. It's normal for the speeds you receive to be lower than those listed on this page. Your real-world speeds depend on a variety of factors that affect your internet, including the Google Fiber equipment you have, the devices you use (such as age/models, locations relative to your router and number) and the 802.11 Wi-Fi version your device uses.
- If possible, connect your device directly to the Multi-Gig Router’s Silver ethernet LAN port using an ethernet cable. You’ll need to use the Silver LAN port to get speeds over 1 Gig.
Run a Speed Test
- Go to speedtest.net and click the go button to start the test.
See how your speed compares to the Maximum internet speeds on Google Fiber
Download the Ookla Speed Test App (opens in a new tab) to perform an accurate speed test.
If you have pop-ups blocked, the speed test may not appear when you click the speed test link. If this occurs, unblock pop-ups temporarily to display the speed test page.
Refer to the Ookla SpeedTest Desktop App Help Center article for additional details regarding how to run the test.
All hardwired speed tests should be conducted using the 10G LAN port on the back of the GFRG300 (or direct to the ONT); this is the silver multi-gig ethernet port on the back of the router.
It is the ONLY MULTIGIG LAN PORT.
Mobile Devices (Wi-Fi)
Release date | 802.11 version | Maximum possible speed |
2020-present | 802.11ax (Wi-Fi 6) | 500 Mbps |
2013-present | 802.11ac | 180 Mbps-390 Mbps |
2011-2012 | 802.11n | 90 Mbps |
2007-2010 | 802.11n | 32 Mbps-90 Mbps |
2006 or earlier | 802.11a/b/g | 32 Mbps |
Computers (Wi-Fi)
Release date | 802.11 version | Maximum possible speed |
2020-present | 802.11ax (Wi-Fi 6) | 700 Mbps |
2013-present | 802.11ac | 195 Mbps- 585 Mbps |
2011-2012 | 802.11n | 180 Mbps-270 Mbps |
2007-2010 | 802.11n | 90 Mbps-180 Mbps |
2006 or earlier | 802.11a/b/g | 32 Mbps |
Computers (ethernet or USB adapter to ethernet)
This section describes the maximum expected speeds based on real-world conditions. The most important factors in determining wired connection (ethernet) speeds are:
- Is your computer capable of gigabit speeds? True for most computers manufactured after 2009
- Does your computer have an ethernet connector? Most recent laptops don't have one; they require a USB to ethernet adapter
- If your computer requires a USB to ethernet adapter, is your computer capable of USB 3.0? True for many computers made after 2013
Release date | How is ethernet connected? | Maximum possible speed |
2016 or later | 2.5GBASE-T or higher ethernet adapter |
2000* Mbps *only with Google Fiber 2 Gig plan |
2010 or later | ethernet connector | 930 Mbps |
2010-2014 | USB 2.0 to ethernet adapter | 400 Mbps |
2015 or later | USB 3.0 to ethernet adapter | 930 Mbps |
2009 or earlier | ethernet connector | 100 Mbps |
- If connecting via Wi-Fi, make sure that your device (phone or computer) is connected to the 5 GHz band. (see Wi-Fi frequencies and signal strength for more detail)
- You should be able to check this in your device’s Wi-Fi settings.
- You can split your Wi-Fi Network Name (SSID) into two separate networks in your account settings.
- Click here for other tips on how to Improve your Wi-Fi speeds
- If your speeds are still slower than expected after following the steps above, contact Google Fiber customer support
Your Own Router
1. Verify that you are on a Google Fiber plan that supports using your own router
- Sign in to your Google Fiber account.
- Click the box next to “I’ll provide my own router.” You’ll be asked to provide the make and model, which is totally optional.
- Click OK at the bottom of the page.
2. Connect the Fiber Jack’s ethernet cable directly to your router’s WAN port
3. Confirm that your router’s specs meet Google Fiber’s requirements
Use your own router (Multi-Gig) specifications:
- Minimum specifications:
- Wi-Fi 6 (802.11ax)
- Dual-band or Quad-band
- Gigabit ethernet port (minimum 2 ports)
- Minimum one 5GBASE-T RJ-45 (Ethernet) for 5 Gig
- Minimum one 10GBASE-T RJ-45 (Ethernet) for 8 Gig
- WPA2 security protocols
- Mesh networking for multi-gig plans
- Advanced specifications:
- Mesh-router system for homes with larger coverage area or Wi-Fi dead spots
- Wi-Fi 6 (802.11ax) for advanced users who need the best Wi-Fi available.
- Speed may be limited by router capabilities, check router specs for support of multi-gig speeds.
- A cable or DSL modem-router combo will typically NOT work with Google Fiber service.
A cable or DSL modem-router combo will typically NOT work with Google Fiber service
4. If you are not able to connect to the internet
- Verify that you can see, and are connected to your router’s Wi-Fi Name (SSID) and Password.
- Try power cycling your router
- Unplug its power cord
- Wait at least 10 seconds
- Plug the power cord back in to the device
- Wait 2-3 minutes for the LEDs to come back on.
- Test a wired connection to your router by connecting with an ethernet cable if possible. This helps to isolate Wi-Fi vs. wired connection issues.
- If you are still not able to connect, and you have already completed the troubleshooting steps for your Fiber Jack above, contact the router manufacturer’s customer service for assistance.
5. If your internet speed is slower than expected
Run a Speed Test
- Go to speedtest.net and click the go button to start the test.
Download the Ookla Speed Test App (opens in a new tab) to perform an accurate speed test.
If you have pop-ups blocked, the speed test may not appear when you click the speed test link. If this occurs, unblock pop-ups temporarily to display the speed test page.
Refer to the Ookla SpeedTest Desktop App Help Center article for additional details regarding how to run the test.
All hardwired speed tests should be conducted using the 10G LAN port on the back of the GFRG300 (or direct to the ONT); this is the silver multi-gig ethernet port on the back of the router.
It is the ONLY MULTIGIG LAN PORT.
- See how your speed compares to the Maximum internet speeds on Google Fiber
Mobile Devices (Wi-Fi)
Release date | 802.11 version | Maximum possible speed |
2020-present | 802.11ax (Wi-Fi 6) | 500 Mbps |
2013-present | 802.11ac | 180 Mbps-390 Mbps |
2011-2012 | 802.11n | 90 Mbps |
2007-2010 | 802.11n | 32 Mbps-90 Mbps |
2006 or earlier | 802.11a/b/g | 32 Mbps |
Computers (Wi-Fi)
Release date | 802.11 version | Maximum possible speed |
2020-present | 802.11ax (Wi-Fi 6) | 700 Mbps |
2013-present | 802.11ac | 195 Mbps- 585 Mbps |
2011-2012 | 802.11n | 180 Mbps-270 Mbps |
2007-2010 | 802.11n | 90 Mbps-180 Mbps |
2006 or earlier | 802.11a/b/g | 32 Mbps |
Computers (ethernet or USB adapter to ethernet)
This section describes the maximum expected speeds based on real-world conditions. The most important factors in determining wired connection (ethernet) speeds are:
- Is your computer capable of gigabit speeds? True for most computers manufactured after 2009
- Does your computer have an ethernet connector? Most recent laptops don't have one; they require a USB to ethernet adapter
- If your computer requires a USB to ethernet adapter, is your computer capable of USB 3.0? True for many computers made after 2013
Release date | How is ethernet connected? | Maximum possible speed |
2016 or later | 10GBASE-T or higher ethernet adapter |
8000* Mbps *only with Google Fiber 8 Gig plan |
2016 or later | 5GBASE-T or higher ethernet adapter |
5000* Mbps *only with Google Fiber 5 Gig plan |
2016 or later | 2.5GBASE-T or higher ethernet adapter |
2000* Mbps *only with Google Fiber 2 Gig plan |
2010 or later | ethernet connector | 930 Mbps |
2010-2014 | USB 2.0 to ethernet adapter | 400 Mbps |
2015 or later | USB 3.0 to ethernet adapter | 930 Mbps |
2009 or earlier | ethernet connector | 100 Mbps |
- If connecting via Wi-Fi, make sure that your device (phone or computer) is connected to the 5 GHz band. (see Wi-Fi frequencies and signal strength for more detail)
- You should be able to check this in your device’s Wi-Fi settings.
- You can split your Wi-Fi Network Name (SSID) into two separate networks in your account settings.
- Click here for other tips on how to Improve your Wi-Fi speeds
- If your speeds are still slower than expected after following the steps above, contact Google Fiber customer support.
Google Nest Wifi Pro
1. Check the color of the LED light on the main Google Nest Wifi Pro point (connected to the Fiber Jack)
Color | What it means | What to do |
---|---|---|
No light | The router has no power. |
Check that the power cable is properly connected to your router and a working wall outlet. If your device is already set up and the light appears off, check your light brightness settings in the app. If there's stil no light, contact Wifi customer support. |
The device is online and you've turned off the status light in the Google Home app. | You're online. | |
The device is online. Note: By default, the light is turned on for online Nest Wifi Pro routers, but you can turn it off in the Google Home app. |
You're online. | |
Device is booting up. | Wait for the device to boot up. This takes about a minute. When it's done, it'll slowly pulse blue to let you know it's ready for setup. | |
Device is updating. | Wait for the device to complete the update. | |
Device is ready for setup. | Use the Google Home app to set up your router. | |
Pairing in progress. | Wait for the device to complete pairing. | |
Router is factory resetting. Note: A solid yellow light during setup also indicates a network error on your device. |
This can take up to 10 minutes. When it's done, the device will reset itself | |
There's a network error. | Check that the Ethernet cable is connected to both your router and modem, and both devices are turned on. You might need to unplug, then plug in each device again. Learn more about fixing network errors. | |
Device encountered an error during setup. | Something went wrong. Wait for the device to slowly pulse blue, then try to pair the device again. | |
You're holding down the reset button and factory resetting the device. | If you keep holding down the reset button, after about 12 seconds, the light will turn solid yellow. Once it's solid yellow, let go of the factory reset button. | |
Something is wrong. | Critical failure. Factory reset the router. If the light stays red, contact Wifi customer support. |
2. Check the Google Home app’s Network Insights
- When an issue with the network is identified by Google Nest Wifi Pro devices, you will have an insight card in your Google Home feed letting you know there may be a problem.
- Open the Google Home app and check your Feed
which is at the bottom right corner of the home screen.
- Check for Network Insight messages.
Examples of Network Insight Messages
Ethernet connection is limiting your network speed
This insight is shown when a speed test has been performed recently in which the link speed of the network was 100 Mbps or lower, and a point’s speed was 90% or less than the speed of their primary point. This likely means that there is an issue with the ethernet cables, connection, or other networking equipment.
- Check if the ethernet ports/cables are loose and/or damaged in any way, and refer to the Fiber Space for replacement if necessary.
Slow internet speeds - internet service providers (ISP)
You will receive this alert when Google Nest Wifi Pro determines that their internet requests are taking longer to complete than expected.
- Test your connection plugged directly into the Fiber Jack.
- If speeds are as expected, proceed with other troubleshooting steps as needed. Otherwise, contact customer support to schedule a repair appointment.
Slow internet speeds - Network congestion
You will receive this alert when Google Nest Wifi Pro detects your internet connection is slow due to congestion or a lack of bandwidth. This means there may be a device on the network using excessive bandwidth (Gaming/Google Photos back-up, etc.) or that there is too much network congestion.
- Check if there are any third party routers on your network and disable them.
- If there are no other networking devices connected, powercycle your Google Nest Wifi Pro devices, starting with the primary point. If speeds do not improve after a powercycle, try factory resetting the devices.
3. If only one of your devices is unable to connect to the internet
- Verify that you can see the Google Nest Wifi Pro Network Name (SSID) and that the device you are using is connected to the correct Wi-Fi Name and Password.
- If only 1 device is not connecting, the issue is more than likely with that device.
- Please contact the device manufacturer’s customer service team before contacting Google Fiber so that we can rule out any device specific issues.
4. If no devices are able to connect to the internet
Verify that you are connecting using the correct Wi-Fi Name (SSID) and password
i. To update your Wi-Fi name:
1. Open the Google Home app .
2. Tap Wi-Fi
Settings
.
ii. To update your Wi-Fi password:
1. Open the Google Home app .
2. Tap Wi-Fi
Show password.
3. Tap Edit .
Powercycle all Google Nest Wifi Pro points as well as your Fiber Jack
- Disconnect power from the Fiber Jack.
- Disconnect ethernet cable and power from the main Google Nest Wifi Pro point (connected to the Fiber Jack).
- Disconnect power from the mesh point(s).
- Leave them all unplugged for one minute.
- Connect the power to the Fiber Jack and allow the Fiber Jack to power on fully before proceeding. This can take up to three minutes. (see Fiber Jack model specific power cycling instructions above if needed).
- Reconnect the power and the ethernet cables back to the main Google Nest Wifi Pro point, making sure that the ethernet cable coming from the Fiber Jack is going into the WAN port on the Google Nest Wifi Pro (looks like a little globe symbol). Wait until it’s fully back online.
Try to get online
- If your service has been restored, reconnect power to the additional mesh point(s).
- The mesh point(s) should turn solid white or teal.
- Continue to the next step to test your Mesh Connection.
- If you are still unable to connect any devices, contact Google Fiber customer support.
5. Test Mesh Connection (for 2+ points)
The mesh test measures the connection between your router or primary Wi-Fi point (the one connected to your modem) and any additional points. The stronger that connection is, the better your Wi-Fi will be throughout your house.
Run a mesh test with the Google Home app
To run a mesh test:
- Open the Google Home app Google Home app.
- Tap Wi-Fi > Wi-Fi devices > Points > Test mesh.
- Once your mesh test is concluded, one of the three ratings will appear: Great, OK, or Weak.
Rating | Speed |
Great | More than 100 Mbps |
OK | Between 50 and 100 Mbps |
Weak | Less than 50 Mbps |
How to get a "Great" wireless mesh connection
- Hardwire mesh points - If you have ethernet wiring throughout your home, you can connect the mesh points to the LAN port of the main point. Since there’s only 1 LAN port on a Google Nest Wifi Pro, you will need an ethernet switch to hardwire multiple mesh points.
- Check line of sight - Points perform better when they can see each other. Repositioning points to avoid obstructions like walls, doors, and aquariums can improve performance.
- Get off the ground - Placing devices somewhere off the ground, such as on a shelf, can greatly improve coverage.
- Consider your overall mesh network - Points depend on each other to provide great coverage in your home. In order to fix a particular “weak” point, you may need to move a different point in order to fix it.
6. If your internet speed is slower than expected
Your internet speed depends on several factors, such as the age of your computer or other device, its distance from your router, and the number of devices connected at once. When you connect using Wi-Fi, you won't reach maximum internet speeds but you can expect faster speeds than you would with other types of wireless access. It's normal for the speeds you receive to be lower than those listed on this page. Your real-world speeds depend on a variety of factors that affect your internet, including the Google Fiber equipment you have, the devices you use (such as age/models, locations relative to your router and number) and the 802.11 Wi-Fi version your device uses.
Run a Speed Test
Run a speed test using the Google Home app. This will tell you the hardwired speed that your Google Nest Wifi Pro is receiving from Google Fiber.
i. Open the Google Home app .
ii. Tap Wi-Fi
under “Network,” tap Run speed test.
iii. To view your previous speed test results, tap Wi-Fi
Network. Results can be found at the bottom.
Run a speed test using a web browser. This will tell you the speed that your individual device (computer, phone, etc.) is receiving from Google Nest Wifi Pro.
i. Go to speedtest.net and click the go button to start the test.
Download the Ookla Speed Test App (opens in a new tab) to perform an accurate speed test.
If you have pop-ups blocked, the speed test may not appear when you click the speed test link. If this occurs, unblock pop-ups temporarily to display the speed test page.
Refer to the Ookla SpeedTest Desktop App Help Center article for additional details regarding how to run the test.
All hardwired speed tests should be conducted using the 10G LAN port on the back of the GFRG300 (or direct to the ONT); this is the silver multi-gig ethernet port on the back of the router.
It is the ONLY MULTIGIG LAN PORT.
ii. See how your speed compares to the Maximum internet speeds on Google Fiber:
Mobile Devices (Wi-Fi)
Release date | 802.11 version | Maximum possible speed |
2020-present | 802.11ax (Wi-Fi 6) | 500 Mbps |
2013-present | 802.11ac | 180 Mbps-390 Mbps |
2011-2012 | 802.11n | 90 Mbps |
2007-2010 | 802.11n | 32 Mbps-90 Mbps |
2006 or earlier | 802.11a/b/g | 32 Mbps |
Computers (Wi-Fi)
Release date | 802.11 version | Maximum possible speed |
2020-present | 802.11ax (Wi-Fi 6) | 700 Mbps |
2013-present | 802.11ac | 195 Mbps- 585 Mbps |
2011-2012 | 802.11n | 180 Mbps-270 Mbps |
2007-2010 | 802.11n | 90 Mbps-180 Mbps |
2006 or earlier | 802.11a/b/g | 32 Mbps |
Computers (ethernet or USB adapter to ethernet)
This section describes the maximum expected speeds based on real-world conditions. The most important factors in determining wired connection (ethernet) speeds are:
- Is your computer capable of gigabit speeds? True for most computers manufactured after 2009
- Does your computer have an ethernet connector? Most recent laptops don't have one; they require a USB to ethernet adapter
- If your computer requires a USB to ethernet adapter, is your computer capable of USB 3.0? True for many computers made after 2013
Release date | How is ethernet connected? | Maximum possible speed |
2016 or later | 2.5GBASE-T or higher ethernet adapter |
2000* Mbps *only with Google Fiber 2 Gig plan |
2010 or later | ethernet connector | 930 Mbps |
2010-2014 | USB 2.0 to ethernet adapter | 400 Mbps |
2015 or later | USB 3.0 to ethernet adapter | 930 Mbps |
2009 or earlier | ethernet connector | 100 Mbps |
- If connecting via Wi-Fi, make sure that your device (phone or computer) is connected to the 5 GHz band. (see Wi-Fi frequencies and signal strength for more detail)
- You should be able to check this in your device’s Wi-Fi settings.
- You can split your Wi-Fi Network Name (SSID) into two separate networks in your account settings.
- Click here for other tips on how to Improve your Wi-Fi speeds
- If your speeds are still slower than expected after following the steps above, contact Google Fiber customer support